How to Grow a tomato plant in Cameroon – Step by step 

How to Grow a tomato plant in Cameroon – Step by step guides

If you grow fruits and vegetables, likelihood is that you’ve thought of growing tomatoes. With numerous varieties, delicious flavors, and health benefits, what’s to not love? With proper care within the planting, growing, and harvesting stages, you’ll enjoy a successful crop this year and for years to return . you’ll find out how to grow a tomato plant in Cameroon from a start or from a young plant by following some simple strategies.How to Grow a tomato plant in Cameroon - Step by step guides 

Part 1

Choosing a Location for Your Plant

1. Plant directly within the ground, if possible.

You’ll plant almost any variety and don’t need to water your plants as often as you’d if they were in containers. this is often also a way to think about if you would like an outsized yield of fruit.
You’ll need to find a spot that receives 6 to eight hours of sunlight every day . If soil-borne diseases escape , you’ll have a difficult time sterilizing the whole area or replacing the soil. These gardens are more susceptible to moles, gophers, birds, squirrels, and deer.

2. Create raised beds.

This is often an excellent option if you’re concerned about pollutants in your soil. you’ll even replace the soil if disease breaks out or if necessary. The non-compact soil allows for better drainage and aeration than in-ground gardens. If you suffer from back or leg pain, you’ve got the advantage of not having to bend over the maximum amount .
As for disadvantages, you’ll need to leave enough space between beds for efficient maintenance and harvesting. You’ll even have to ante up front for materials, like untreated lumber and soil.

Raised beds also dry out faster than planting within the ground.

3. Use containers if you’ve got limited space.

Some containers are more portable than others. They’re great if you don’t have much yard space. However, they require more frequent watering, since the soil dries out quickly. You’ll also got to invest during a dditional support structures if you reside in a climate that gets high winds. Some popular sorts of containers are:
Upcycled buckets are cheap and straightforward to accumulate . They’re usually lightweight enough to move , but you’ve got to drill your own drainage holes. Dark plastic can overheat and leach toxic chemicals into the soil. Metal buckets can rust and stain your patio or deck.
Barrels are attractive and supply enough space for roots to flourish. Just confine mind that they’re difficult to maneuver and can eventually rot. You’ll even have to drill your own drainage holes.

4. Install window boxes in upper-story windows.

You’ll water and harvest your tomatoes just by opening your window. You’ll even have to affect fewer pests the upper up you reside . persist with small varieties like cherry tomatoes to avoid toppling. You’ll even have to anchor the boxes to your window(s).

5. Hang your plant(s).

Choose this feature if you would like to avoid stooping over your plants. Because they’re not in or on the brink of the bottom , you’ll need to water them more frequently. They also need strong hardware to anchor them in situ .
Hanging baskets are often adapted to upper-story apartments by hanging them from the window sill. Just confine mind that your options are going to be limited to small varieties like cherry tomatoes.
Upside-down planters are often made up of upcycled buckets. during this state, tomato plants don’t got to be staked. Birds are less likely to select at tomatoes because they need nowhere to perch. However, the unabsorbed water may drip onto leaves and fruits, increasing the danger of disease. Inverted hangers also produce small yields.

Part 2

Planting the Tomatoes

1. Buy your tomatoes plant

you’ll find tomato plants at nursesies, garden centers, and even at farmers’ markets. Choose healthy looking plants and confirm to shop for the tomato plants on the brink of once you plan on planting them.

2. Add many compost to the garden soil.

Tomatoes demand a growing medium rich in organic matter. If you do not make your own compost, use store-bought compost that has granite dust and topsoil. you will need about 5 to eight pounds per sq ft (25 to 40 kilograms per square meter). Turn compost into the highest 3 inches (6 to eight cm).
Before setting your seedling or plant within the soil, toss a few handfuls of organic material or egg shells within the bottom of your planting hole. because the roots grow deeper, they’ll hit this layer of nutrients just in time to actually boost your fruit output.

3. Monitor the soil pH.

Tomatoes thrive in mildly acidic soil. Highly acidic soil can leach calcium from the plant and cause blossom end rot. Keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil tests above 6.8, water your tomatoes with a mix of equal parts cold coffee and water. you’ll also add a mulch pf pine needles. If your soil tests below 6.0, use either dolomite lime or calcium sources like crushed eggshells or calcite.

4. Choose a sunny spot.

Place tomato plants fully sun. If you reside during a cooler growing zone, aim for a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight every day . If you reside during a consider hot zone, pick a spot that gets some shade within the afternoon.
Keep in mind that tomato plants can take full sun even in warmer climates. you’ll just got to keep the soil well-mulched and watered.

5. Space the plants 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart.

This is often usually enough space to permit you to urge in between the plants to water, weed, and harvest. If you reside during a hot climate, space plants 9 to 18 inches (23 to 46 cm) apart. This distance allows plants in cages to shade each other’s fruit, preventing burn.

6. Transplant the plant deeply.

Bury about 50 to 80 percent of the plant. Pack the soil firmly round the roots. confirm the roots are completely covered. confirm to trim off the lower leaves of the plant and don’t bury them. If you bury them then they’re going to rot.
When removing the plants from their pots, tap rock bottom of the pot and check out to urge the roots and soil beat one piece. this is often important because ripping the roots apart could damage the plant.

Part 3

Caring for Your Plant

1. Cage or stake your tomatoes.

This supports the tomato vine. Set them up at the time of planting. Don’t wait quite 14 days. If you favor , you’ll make your own tomato cages.
A cage should be a minimum of 48 inches (1.2 m) tall. Cages can bend if the plants get heavy and sometimes collapse in summer storms. Remove leaves and secondary stems because the plant grows.
A stake should be a minimum of 0.5 x 2 inches (1.3 x 5 cm) wide and 6 to eight feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) long. Pound stakes about 12 to 24 inches (30 cm to 60 cm) deep, a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm) faraway from the plant. Secure the plant to the stake using loosely knotted, double-looped strips of fabric or garden twine that will not strangle the plant. Stakes are often made from bamboo, scrap wood, electrical conduit, or iron bar.

2. Water every 7 to 10 days.

Do that after the primary week. Give them about 16 ounces (about 500 mL) of warm water per plant a day . Drip or soaker hose watering aimed toward the roots is best than overhead watering, which may encourage diseases.
To prevent mold or fungal diseases, water plants within the morning.
Water less frequently after 10 days. Ensure plants are receiving 1 to three inches (2.5 cm to 7.6 cm) of rain weekly. If not, give each plant about 2 gallons (about 7.5 L) per plant per week, beginning by about the top of the second week after transplanting.
Increase water because the plants get larger and when weather is hotter. Water deeply 2 to three times weekly, about ..75 to 1 gallon (2.84 to 3.79 L) (about 3 to 4 L) whenever . confirm that the soil is moist, but not drenched.

3. Apply mulch.

After one or fortnight , surround the plants with a mulch of straw or dried grass. this could control weeds and keep the soil moist during dry weather. The mulch should be about an in. (2.5 cm) thick and surround a minimum of a circle 12 inches (about 30 cm) in diameter round the stem.

4.Choose a fertilizer.

Tomatoes can grow alright organically if the soil is enriched with organic matter. If you select a chemical fertilizer, search for a vegetable fertilizer. Use half the recommended concentration of chemical fertilizer per gallon/liter (using package directions).

Do not use lawn fertilizer. The ratio of minerals in lawn fertilizer is for growing stems and leaves.
Over-fertilization can cause plants to grow too quickly, leaving them more vulnerable to disease and insects.

5. Shake your plant poles or cages gently.

This increases fruit production by evenly distributing pollen. do that once or twice hebdomadally for about 5 seconds. Start this practice when flowering begins.

Part 4

Addressing Common Issues

  1. Check for “suckers.” These are branches that grow within the joint between the most stem and other branches. They use a number of the plant’s nutrients as they grow. Leaving suckers will produce more, but smaller, fruit. Pinch them off for larger fruits.

2. Beat the warmth.

If you reside during a hot climate, grow heat-tolerant varieties like Phoenix, Heatmaster, and Solar Fire. Find a spot that receives full sun within the morning and filtered sun within the afternoon. Between 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM, protect your plants with shade cloths.
If your fruit starts to ripen during an intense wave with nights over 75 °F (24 °C) and days over 95 °F (35 °C), harvest the fruit early. it’ll stop ripening in intense heat.

3. Control humidity.

Tomato plants require high humidity (80-90 percent) during the day and moderate humidity (65-75 percent at night) to supply fruit. Humidity over 90 percent and below 65 percent can trigger blossom end rot. If you’re growing tomatoes during a greenhouse, use a sling psychrometer to live humidity. to extend humidity outdoors or within the greenhouse, try misting the plants. Decrease humidity within the greenhouse by increasing ventilation.
If you reside during a very humid climate, your best bet for outdoor tomatoes is to grow humidity-tolerant varieties, like Ferline, Legend, Fantasio.

4. Prevent blossom-end rot.

Blossom-end rot is that the blackening and erosion of rock bottom of a tomato fruit. Once you see it, it’s too late to save lots of the plant. Prevention is your best bet. Calcium deficiency causes blossom-end rot. to stop this problem:
Bring about one gallon (about 4 L) of water and a tablespoon (15 mL) of juice to a boil.
Add 6 tablespoons of bone meal to the water. Stir well. Don’t worry about completely dissolving the answer .
Cook covered for half-hour .
Allow it to chill .
Feed 1 quart (about 1 L) of solution to every plant at the leaves and roots.
Repeat the treatment a second time in 3 to five days.
You can also sprinkle crushed eggshells round the plants to feature calcium to the soil.

5. Make your own bird repellant.

Put red ornaments round the top of the tomato cages. Birds will think they’re tomatoes and pick at them. The ornaments’ hard, tasteless surfaces will confuse the birds. this may make them leave your tomatoes alone.
Keep in mind that this may only work temporarily. Before the fruit ripens on your tomato plants, drape netting over the plants to stay the birds away.

6. Bring chickens and ducks into the garden.

You’ll do that if you reside within the country or during a city that permits it. Chickens and ducks enjoy eating slugs and tomato hornworms. Without control, slugs and hornworms can kill your plants by eating the leaves.

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